This Week in the Garden (May 13 to 19, 2013)

Whoo hoo! It’s finally warm enough to plant our tender veggies and annuals. Take advantage of the warm weather (and possible rains later this week) to get your heat-loving plants off to a good start!

Kitchen Gardens

In fruit and vegetable gardens, we’re

  • planting out warm-weather transplants, including tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, melons, and squash.
  • sowing warm-weather seeds, including pole and bush beans, cucumbers, corn, melons, pumpkins, and squash.
  • planting out tender herbs, including basil, lemon verbena, rosemary, dill, and pineapple sage. It’s also a good time to plant your perennial herbs, like lavender, oregano, and thyme.
  • sowing warm-weather herbs from seed. Cilantro and dill both grow well from seed.
  • sowing warm-weather annuals in our kitchen garden. Zinnias, sunflowers, nasturtium, and other summer annuals bring in pollinators and add some zip to the vegetable beds. If you’ve bought annuals to transplant, you can do that now as well.
Zinnia and salvia can add color to the kitchen garden. Sow zinnia from seed now, and plant salvia as transplants.

Zinnia and salvia can add color to the kitchen garden. Sow zinnia from seed now, and plant salvia as transplants.

  • • thinning out lettuce, spinach, greens, carrots, and radishes in the garden. Check your seed packet for the “final” or “thin to” spacing. You can eat the thinnings of these plants in a salad.
  • caging our tomatoes. It’s easiest to cage a tomato right after you plant it. Put a pot upside down over the plant to protect it, then push the cage into the soil so that the bottom ring of the cage rests on the soil. Remove the pot.
  • • keeping the seeds bed moist. Water your seed beds once or twice a day until your veggies emerge.
  • • continuing to hill up potatoes. When your potatoes reach about 5″ tall, start covering the base of the plant with soil or straw mulch.
  • • harvesting the first of our spring crops, like cut-and-come-again (leaf) lettuce. Cut or pick the lettuce leaves, but leave the base, which will grow new leaves.
  • • weeding the kitchen garden. Weeds are popping up constantly, so use a hoe to knock down weed seedlings or weed by hand.
  • • mulching the kitchen garden. We like straw, but you can use hardwood mulch for a more formal look. Don’t forget to mulch your strawberry bed too. Avoid mulching seed beds until those plants have emerged from the soil.
Lavender, lemon thyme, and English thyme make up this little herb garden. Golden oregano (int he upper right) provides a splash of color. Mid-may is a great time to plant out herbs.

Lavender, lemon thyme, and English thyme make up this little herb garden. Golden oregano (in the back at upper right) provides a splash of color. Mid-May is a great time to plant out herbs.

Ornamental Gardens

In other parts of the garden, we’re

  • • turning the compost heap.
  • • beginning to mulch garden beds. Now that the soil temps have warmed up, you can safely mulch your beds with 2″ to 4″ of hardwood mulch, straw, shredded leaves, or other organic materials. See our post The Magic of Mulch for more info.
  • • deadheading daffodils and tulips. Once your bulbs are done blooming, cut or snap off the flower stem close to the base of your plant. But leave the rest of the foliage to die back naturally; the sunlight it harvests nourishes the bulb for the next year.
  • outwitting slugs. If slugs are chomping your emerging hosta or other plants, try ringing the plants with gravel, crushed eggshell, or other sharp, gritty material. You can also drown them by putting out a shallow saucer of beer.
  • • thoroughly weeding beds. Tap-rooted weeds like dandelions come up most easily after a rain.
  • • planting shrubs and perennials. May is a great time to plant shrubs and perennials. Don’t forget to water them regularly.
  • • savoring the lilacs, viburnum, and other flowering shrubs.
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This Week in the Garden (May 6 to 12, 2013)

We’re still waiting to plant out tender veggies, because the temperatures are supposed to drop into the high 30s on Sunday night. If you have planted out tender vegetables or annuals, be sure to cover them with a sheet or bring them inside that night.

Kitchen Gardens

In fruit and vegetable gardens, we’re

  • keeping a close eye on the nighttime temperatures. We’re waiting until temps are consistently above 50 degrees to plant out tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. 
  • • thinning out lettuce, spinach, greens, carrots, and radishes in the garden. Check your seed packet for the “final” or “thin to” spacing. You can eat the thinnings of these plants in a salad.
  • making an additional sowing of leaf lettuce, carrots, beets, and radishes. To keep yourself in these veggies, try sowing a small section with them every two weeks or so.
  • sowing beans. Soil temps are in the mid-60s, so it’s safe to plant your pole, bush, and lima beans.
  • sowing melons and summer squash. The soil may be a bit cool for sowing these, but you can use a Mason jar over these seeds as a mini greenhouse to help warm the soil.
  • • keeping the seeds bed moist. Water your seed beds once or twice a day until your veggies emerge.
  • • continuing to hill up potatoes. When your potatoes reach about 5″ tall, start covering the base of the plant with soil or straw mulch.
  • • harvesting the first of our spring crops, like cut-and-come-again (leaf) lettuce. Cut or pick the lettuce leaves, but leave the base, which will grow new leaves.
  • sowing nasturtium in the garden. We love the bright pop of color these flowers add to the garden, and they’re edible, too!
  • weeding the kitchen garden. Weeds are popping up constantly, so use a hoe to knock down weed seedlings or weed by hand.
Time to thin out the lettuce seedlings! Leave enough space for your lettuce (and other crops) to grow to their full size.

Time to thin out the lettuce seedlings! Leave enough space for your lettuce (and other crops) to grow to their full size.

Ornamental Gardens

In other parts of the garden, we’re

  • • turning the compost heap.
  • • adding compost to garden beds.
  • deadheading daffodils and tulips. Once your bulbs are done blooming, cut or snap off the flower stem close to the base of your plant. But leave the rest of the foliage to die back naturally; the sunlight it harvests nourishes the bulb for the next year.
  • • thoroughly weeding beds.
  • • beginning to plant shrubs and perennials. As long as the soil isn’t soggy, it’s safe to start planting your shrubs and perennials. Hold off on mulching for a while longer, though. You want the soil to be thoroughly warm first.
  • • savoring the lilacs, viburnum, and other flowering shrubs.
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This Week in the Garden (April 27 to May 2, 2013)

It’s a glorious, but short, run of warm weather before weekend rains. Get out in the garden and enjoy it!

Kitchen Gardens

In fruit and vegetable gardens, we’re

  • • testing soil temperatures. Soil temps in our gardens are about 65 degrees, which is warm enough for tomatoes. But you might want to hold off a bit longer; nighttime air temps should be consistently above 50 degrees for tomatoes to grow well.
  • • thinning out lettuce, spinach, and greens in the garden. Check your seed packet for the “final” or “thin to” spacing. You need to allow the plants room to achieve their mature size. You can eat the thinnings of these plants in a salad.
  • keeping the seeds bed moist. Water your seed beds once or twice a day until your veggies emerge.
  • • hardening off warm-weather veggies. We’ll wait a bit longer on peppers and eggplants, but we’re hardening off tomatoes, squash, and melons.
  • shopping for and hardening off other warm-weather plants. If you purchase tender veggies, herbs, or flowers, ask the grower if they’ve been hardened off. If not, get them used to the outside by leaving them in a sheltered place and bringing them inside at night for several days.
  • pinching the flowers off newly planted strawberries. You want the plant to put all its energy into growing roots the first season, so harden your heart and remove those flowers.
  • • hilling up potatoes. When your potatoes reach about 5″ tall, start covering the base of the plant with soil or straw mulch.
  • • harvesting asparagus. As long as your bed was planted at least two years ago, you can safely harvest spears. Just snap them off close to the ground.
  • harvesting the first of our spring crops, like cut-and-come-again (leaf) lettuce. Cut or pick the lettuce leaves, but leave the base, which will grow new leaves.
The tulips are in full flower in Terry's front garden!

The tulips are in full flower in Terry’s front garden!

Ornamental Gardens

In other parts of the garden, we’re

  • • turning the compost heap.
  • • adding compost to garden beds.
  • • thoroughly weeding beds.
  • beginning to plant shrubs and perennials. As long as the soil isn’t soggy, it’s safe to start planting your shrubs and perennials. Hold off on mulching for a while longer, though. You want the soil to be thoroughly warm first.
  • • savoring the flowering trees and lilacs.
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This Week in the Garden (April 22 to 28, 2013)

Looks like it’s finally going to start warming up! Hold off planting your tender veggies and herbs until at least May 1, and maybe even a bit longer.

Kitchen Gardens

In fruit and vegetable gardens, we’re

  • testing soil temperatures. The soil is currently at about 60 degrees. Tomatoes can handle that temperature, but peppers prefer a soil temp of at least 65. Eggplants like it even hotter, at around 75 degrees. We might plant tomatoes late next week, but we’ll hold off on peppers and eggplants.
  • doing thorough weeding of the kitchen garden.
  • thinning out lettuce, spinach, and greens in the garden. Check your seed packet for the “final” or “thin to” spacing. You need to allow the plants room to achieve their mature size. You can eat the thinnings of these plants in a salad.
  • • keeping the seeds bed moist. Water your seed beds once or twice a day until your veggies emerge.
  • starting to harden off warm-weather veggies. We’ll wait a bit longer on peppers and eggplants, but we’re hardening off tomatoes, squash, and melons.
  • hilling up potatoes. When your potatoes reach about 5″ tall, start covering the base of the plant with soil or straw mulch. Hilling up prevents the potato tubers from getting sun that will turn them green. 
  • • harvesting asparagus. As long as your bed was planted at least two years ago, you can safely harvest spears. Just snap them off close to the ground.
  • • enjoying the blooms on our fruit trees.
This herb bed is the centerpiece of a potager (decorative food garden) we installed this week at R Bistor on Mass Ave. Stop by and check it out!

This herb bed is the centerpiece of a potager (decorative food garden) we installed this week at R Bistor on Mass Ave. Stop by and check it out!

Ornamental Gardens

In other parts of the garden, we’re

  • • turning the compost heap.
  • • adding compost to garden beds.
  • thoroughly weeding beds.
  • • enjoying the tulips and watching for breaking buds on the lilacs.
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Rain Gardens

April showers bring…standing water or runoff problems? Consider a rain garden!

A rain garden is a shallow depression (4″ to 6″ at its deepest) designed to temporarily hold water until it can soak into the ground. Rain gardens can be planted in most any style, from a miniature wilderness garden to a more manicured look. And rain gardens can be designed to handle exposures from full sun to full shade!

The best rain garden plants are natives and deep-rooted species that can handle periods of flooding and drought. Their tough nature means they can break up soil so that water and nutrients can soak deep into the ground. And they add diversity to the garden, serving as a haven for birds, pollinators, and beneficial insects.

We designed this rain garden to handle the runoff from a sump pump. The rain garden (left of the path) is integrated into the larger garden.

We designed this rain garden to handle the runoff from a sump pump. The rain garden (left of the path) is integrated into the larger garden.

Why add a rain garden?

Rain gardens can actually improve the ability of your garden to survive drought. Rain gardens hold water until it can soak into the ground, where it becomes available to surrounding plants.

Using rain gardens prevents runoff into storm sewers. Runoff carries with it garden chemicals, surface oils from streets, pet waste, and other undesirables. This runoff is untreated and flows directly into our freshwater lakes and streams.

Rain gardens act as scrubbers, filtering contaminants out of the water they hold. The plants themselves, along with the soil structure, break down the pollutants in the rain water that flows into them and makes them inert. The water can then sink deep into the ground.

Rain gardens are especially valuable in places like Indianapolis, which has a combined sewer overflow. When the storm sewer receives more runoff than it can handle, it floods the sanitary sewer, washing unprocessed sewage into our waterways.

Want to learn more?

The Indianapolis Office of Sustainability has a great information section about creating rain gardens and native plantings. You can check it out here.

Spotts Garden Service has installed several rain gardens, including one designed specifically to handle the discharge from a sump pump. We’re big believers in using garden strategies to solve problems. Give us a call at (317) 356-8808 to get started on yours!

 

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Tulip Trivia

In honor of one of our spring favorites, some fun facts about the genus Tulipa!

• The giant tulips we most often see in gardens are hybrids, most of them developed from Tulip gesnerana.

• The species, or botanical, tulips are smaller than the hybrids. Species tulips are native to a swathe of the near east from Southern Europe, through Turkey, Israel, and North Africa, as far east as northwest China.

This small species tulip is still going strong three years after planting.

This small species tulip is still going strong three years after planting.

• The word “tulip” may be traced back to the Persian word for “turban,” which the Persians thought the flower resembled.

• In Persia, a red tulip declared love; the black center of the flower represented the giver’s heart, burned to a coal with passion.

• Tulips require a period of cool weather in order to bloom. Gardeners in the southern part of the U.S. get around this need for vernalization by artificially chilling bulbs before planting them.

• Tulips are divided into early, mid-, and late-season bloomers. To keep the color coming, choose some from each group.

Large hybrid tulips give a great show the first year, but should be replanted every couple of years to keep the show going.

Large hybrids give a great show the first year but should be replanted every couple of years to keep the show going.

• The splashy garden cultivars generally give a great show the first year, but the second season is underwhelming. If you love big flowers, plan to replant every year or two.

• For bulbs that naturalize, look for the species tulips, especially T. clusiana, T. tarda, and T. saxatilis. They like full sun, lean soil, and to be left alone to spread.

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Gardeners on the Go!

The Spotts crew is taking our gardening show on the road. Come see us at these events, and let us know how your garden grows!

We’re especially excited to be at Orchard in Bloom, a nationally recognized garden show now in its 24th year. Join us in Holliday Park to soak up some inspiration from display gardens and garden speakers.

  • Orchard in Bloom
  • Friday, May 3. We’ll be at Orchard in Bloom all day, 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
  • SGS presents “Vegetable Gardens for Beginners” at 2:00 p.m.
  • Orchard in Bloom
  • Saturday, May 4. We’ll be there all day, 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.
  • SGS presents “Small Space Gardening” at 11:00 a.m.
  • Orchard in Bloom
  • Sunday, May 5. We’ll be there all day, 11:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.
  • Celebrate Irvington! Spend the afternoon visiting the Washington Street corridor in our ‘hood.
  • Saturday, May 11, 12:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.
  • Green Drinks Indy, hosted by Spotts Garden Service. We’ll be hosting this event at Amy F’s house, so you can check out her amazing spring garden and enjoy some garden chat.
  • Tuesday, May 14, 6:00 p.m.
  • Urban Homesteading at Irvington Garden Club. Our own urban farmgirl, Amy M, will be talking about her urban homestead.
  • Monday, May 20, 7:00 p.m.

 

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This Week in the Garden (April 15 to 21, 2013)

What a deluge! The ground is too wet to work, so wait until it dries out before doing any planting. (On the other hand, a solid rain makes the weeds easier to pull!)

Kitchen Gardens

In fruit and vegetable gardens, we’re

  • doing thorough weeding of the kitchen garden.
  • • planting a last round of peas, lettuce, carrot, kale, radish, beet, spinach, and greens in the garden (once it dries out).
  • • keeping the seeds bed moist. Water your seed beds once or twice a day until your veggies emerge.
  • keeping an eye on indoor tomato, pepper, eggplant, melon, and squash starts.
  •  sowing flower seeds indoors. We like to get a jump on the season by sowing nasturtium, zinnia, and dwarf sunflowers indoors to transplant outside in May.
  • harvesting asparagus. As long as your bed was planted at least two years ago, you can safely harvest spears. Just snap them off close to the ground.
  • planting out bare-root strawberries in prepared beds.
  • glorying in the blooms on our fruit trees.
The trees are finally blooming!

The trees are finally blooming!

Ornamental Gardens

In other parts of the garden, we’re

  • • purchasing and planting spring annuals. Good plants for your spring pots include pansies, snapdragons, ranunculus, bellis, erysimum, stock, and osteospermum.
  • • turning the compost heap.
  • • adding compost to garden beds.
  • • doing spring garden clean up: cutting down old perennials, raking out the beds, and weeding.
  • • enjoying the tulips and all the blooming trees.
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This Week in the Garden (April 8 to 14, 2013)

Spring is finally here! The daffodils are blooming, and it’s warm enough to plant our cool-weather crops in the kitchen garden.

Kitchen Gardens

In fruit and vegetable gardens, we’re

  • • planting early-season potatoes, like Red Norland and  Yukon Gold.
  • • planting peas, lettuce, carrot, kale, radish, beet, spinach, and greens in the garden. 
  • keeping the seeds bed moist. Water your seed beds once or twice a day until your veggies emerge.
  • • planting out hardened-off broccoli, cabbage, and other cole crops.
  • • sowing tomatoes indoors. Tomatoes take about four weeks from sowing to transplanting, so seeds sown indoors now will be ready for planting out by mid-May.
  • sowing summer squash, winter squash, and melons indoors. These can all be planted directly in the garden in May, but you can plant them inside now if you want a head start.
  •  sowing flower seeds indoors. We like to get a jump on the season by sowing nasturtium, zinnia, and dwarf sunflowers indoors to transplant outside in May.
These spring pots include perennial heuchera, as well as annual pansies and kale. We stuck some yellow-twig dogwood clippings in for height.

These spring pots include perennial heuchera, as well as annual pansies and kale. We stuck some yellow-twig dogwood clippings in for height.

Ornamental Gardens

In other parts of the garden, we’re

  • • purchasing and planting spring annuals. Good plants for your spring pots include pansies, snapdragons, ranunculus, bellis, erysimum, stock, and osteospermum.
  • • turning the compost heap.
  • • adding compost to garden beds.
  • • doing spring garden clean up: cutting down old perennials, raking out the beds, and starting to weed.
  • enjoying the daffodils!
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This Week in the Garden (March 25 to 31, 2013)

We checked the soil temperature in the garden this morning, and it’s a not-so-balmy 40 degrees. That’s just warm enough for early crops, so we’ll plant this weekend. Come on, spring!

Kitchen Gardens

In fruit and vegetable gardens, we’re

  • checking the temperature of our soil. A handy guide from Purdue explains how to best check the soil temperature.
  • planting early-season potatoes, like Red Norland and  Yukon Gold. Cut your larger seed potatoes into chunks with one or two eyes per chunk (smaller seed potatoes cam be planted whole).
  • planting peas, lettuce, carrot, kale, radish, beet, spinach, and greens in the garden. Soil temperatures are ok for these crops, but be sure your soil has dried out enough. (Squeeze a handful of soil. If it sticks in a clump, it’s still too wet. If it crumbles when you poke it, it’s dry enough to plant.)
  • planting out hardened-off leeks, lettuce, and onions. Hold off on planting out broccoli, cabbage, and other cole crops for another week or two.
  • sowing tomatoes indoors.
  • taking care of our other indoor seedlings. Seedlings need food, so feed them with a half-dose of compost tea or organic fertilizer once a week. (Don’t forget to keep them watered!)
Daisy-like osteospermum is a cool-season annual that thrives in spring pots.

Daisy-like osteospermum is a cool-season annual that thrives in spring pots.

Ornamental Gardens

In other parts of the garden, we’re

  • purchasing and planting spring annuals. Good plants for your spring pots include pansies, snapdragons, ranunculus, bellis, erysimum, stock, and osteospermum.
  • • turning the compost heap.
  • doing spring garden clean up: cutting down old perennials, raking out the beds, and starting to weed.
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